Before cleaning or further disassembly of the block, perform an inspection to see if there is any damage (cracks, fretting, etc.) that would prohibit reuse. If any cracks are found, the cylinder block must be replaced.
Pay close attention to areas of the block that include:
Use caution while handling and cleaning the cylinder block. The cylinder block may contain sharp edges that can cause personal injury.
WARNING
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
CAUTION
Use care not to damage the machined gasket surfaces.
Use a gasket scraper to clean the cylinder block deck surface.
Use Scotch-Brite™ 7448 abrasive pad, or equivalent, and solvent to remove any residual gasket material from the cylinder block deck surface.
Remove any remaining adhesive sealant from other cylinder block sealing surfaces.
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
WARNING
Wear appropriate eye and face protection when using compressed air. Flying debris and dirt can cause personal injury.
Use clean solvent and a non-metallic brush to clean the block oil drillings.
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
Remove the cylinder block from the cleaning tank.
Clean the cylinder head deck surface with safety solvent to remove any residual cleaning solution from the steps above.
All measurements of the cylinder block must be made when the block is positioned on a flat surface. If the block is mounted on the engine stand, the measurements can be wrong because of distortion.
Measure the cylinder block liner ledge at 4 points.
Cylinder Block Liner Ledge Inside Diameter
mm
in
150.992
MAX
5.945
If the ledge measurement is greater than 150.992 mm [ 5.945 inches], replace the cylinder block.
If liner ledge pitting is discovered during block inspection, the block can be reused if no leak is evident in the liner-to-liner ledge (block) interface.
Liner ledge pitting has an appearance very similar to liner pitting. Contributing factors to its formation are:
Combustion gases in the cooling system
Poorly maintained coolant chemistry
Excessive load reversal at the liner to block contact area.
Liner ledge pitting starts at the radius and progresses towards the center of the bore. In most circumstances this would not be a block malfunction.
Inspect the cylinder liner seat “C” for extreme wear or cracks.
If surface “C” has signs of extreme wear, the cylinder liner seat will require machining and the installation of shims for the correct liner protrusion. See the Repair section of this procedure.
Clean the main bearing saddles and caps. Make sure to inspect the main bearing caps and main bearing saddle areas for cracks, fretting, and signs of discoloration.
If any cracks are found, the cylinder block must be replaced.
If any of the original caps are replaced, the main bearing bore must be machined. Use the correct parts of the main bearing boring tool, Part Number ST-1177.
The main caps are marked so the number is on the cam side (left side) and the arrow pointing to the front of the block is to the non-cam (right side) side.The cylinder block identification number (3) is stamped on a pad at the rear of the engine in line with the crankshaft center on the exhaust side of the block. Install the caps in the correct position with the position number to the camshaft side and its part number toward the rear of the engine.
Align the capscrew holes in the cap with the holes in the cylinder block.
Insert the bar through the centering rings while slowly rotating the bar. The bar must turn easily.
If the bar does not turn easily, check to make sure the main bearing caps are installed correctly. If they appear to be correct, move one of the centering rings to another bearing location.
Install the checking ring into the main bearing bore by hand. If the ring will not slide through the bore, check the bore for burrs. If the ring will still not slide through the bore, the bore is undersize and must be repaired.
All measurements of the cylinder block must be made when the block is positioned on a flat surface. If the block is mounted on the engine stand, the measurements can be wrong because of distortion.
Inspect the gasket surfaces.
Inspect for burrs or damage.
Use a burr knife or a crocus cloth to remove the burrs.
Fretting or pitting of the cylinder block head deck is not uncommon. It is only detrimental to the head gasket joint if the fretting or pitting is close to the coolant or oil passages. These areas, if damaged, prevent the head gasket from sealing.
If fretting damage, scratches, cracks, or corrosion deeper than 0.08 mm [0.003 in] are present in an area where a head gasket seal ring or a grommet makes contact, the surface must be repaired. There must not be any defect which extends more than 2.41 mm [0.095 in] from the edge of the coolant passage.
Fretting damage in any other area is acceptable if it does not change the protrusion measurement of the cylinder liner.
The cylinder block head deck can be machined to the minimum cylinder block height without the use of an oversize gasket. However, if the height of the block is less than 399.50 mm [15.728 in], then the cylinder block must be replaced.
Use a 610 mm [24 in] caliper to measure the height of the cylinder block from the center of the main bearing bore to the cylinder head deck surface.
Use a precision straight edge to check the head deck of the cylinder block for flatness.
NOTE: Contact a Cummins® Authorized Distributor for a machining shop capable of repairing the ISZ cylinder block.
Newly machined surfaces must be flat within 0.51 mm [0.020 in] under a cylinder head.
Waves on the surface are acceptable as long as they are not more than 0.018 mm [0.0007 in] in height. The high and low points of the waves must not be any closer than 25.4 mm [1.0 in].
Machined surfaces must be within block height specifications.
Measure the liner seat depth. From the cylinder block head deck to point (C).
Cylinder Block Seat Depth from Cylinder Block Head Deck
mm
in
119.965
MIN
4.723
120.035
MAX
4.726
NOTE: If any of the liner seat depths are out of specification, the liner seat can be machined and shims installed. See the Repair section of this procedure.
Remove any burrs from the top deck surface of the cylinder block. A 12 inch, flat surface, mill file is effective for this step. Burr removal is necessary to obtain an accurate fixture location.
NOTE: The thread salvage kit is designed to be used with the cylinder liner removed. If the cylinder liner remains in the block, shims must be installed to both sides of the base equally to bridge the liner.
NOTE: On some engines, it will be necessary to use the spacer, Part Number 3376206, between the mounting base and drilling fixture.
Select two capscrew holes so the damaged capscrew hole is positioned approximately in the middle. Install the mounting plate assembly onto the capscrew holes using the appropriate spacers, four plain washers, and the existing cylinder head capscrews.
Use a heavy washer and the 5/8-18 x 3 inch hex head capscrew to attach the drilling fixture to the mounting plate assembly.
Setting the stop collar is required only for repairs using drills.
Drills are used in some kits to allow the quick removal of waste material; however, care must be taken to make certain the depth of the repaired capscrew hole is not increased beyond specification.
The following steps will result in the drill stopping short of the original hole depth. The remaining material is then removed with the reamer.
Place a 0.76 mm [0.030 in] feeler gauge over the hole to be repaired.
Insert the drill through the drill bushing until its tip rests against the feeler gauge.
Place the thread insert to be installed between the drill bushing and the stop collar.
Move the stop collar down until it rests against the insert and tighten the stop collar.
Place the drill through the drill fixture bushing and let it rest over the top of the damaged capscrew hole.
Use a drill motor with a clutch and a maximum operating speed of 300 rpm. Use a suitable cutting fluid. Operate the drill motor until the stop collar contacts the drill bushing.
Place the reamer through the drill fixture bushing and let it rest over the top of the damaged capscrew hole.
Stop frequently, while reaming the hole, to clean the hole with the chip vacuum.
Use a drill motor with a clutch and a maximum operating speed of 300 rpm and a suitable cutting fluid. Operate the drill motor until the reamer reaches the bottom of the original capscrew hole.
The reamer will stop cutting when it reaches the bottom of the hole.
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
WARNING
Some solvents are flammable and toxic. Read the manufacturer’s instructions before using.
Check the capscrew hole for evidence of porosity and cracks.
Use a solvent-degreasing agent to clean the threads and flush any debris from the tapped hole.
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
WARNING
Some solvents are flammable and toxic. Read the manufacturer’s instructions before using.
Use a solvent-degreasing agent to remove the preservative coating from the circumference of the thread insert.
Prior to increasing the capscrew hole depth, check the following:
Make certain the correct thread insert is being used. Two inserts are available. These inserts are identical, except for their length.
Make certain the insert used is the correct length.
Make certain the capscrew hole is threaded all the way to the bottom.
Make certain there are no burrs or other damage that would prevent the insert from threading to the bottom of the capscrew hole.
After checking the above listed items, if the thread insert protrusion still exceeds 1.0 mm [0.040 in], the depth of the original capscrew hole must be increased using the steps below. Do not increase the depth of the original capscrew hole more than 3.0 mm [0.120 in].
If the protrusion is within specification, the steps for increasing the depth of the hole can be skipped.
NOTE: The thread salvage kit is designed to be used with the cylinder liner removed. If the cylinder liner remains in the block, shims must be installed to both sides of the base equally to bridge the liner.
NOTE: On some engines, it will be necessary to use the spacer, Part Number 3376206, between the mounting base and drilling fixture.
Install the mounting plate assembly.
Do not tighten the fasteners.
Slide the drill through the drill bushing and into the threaded hole until it rests at the bottom of the hole.
Tighten all fasteners.
Torque Value: 68 n.m [50 ft-lb]
The drill must slide freely in the bushing and threaded hole, indicating that it is centered in the hole.
Do not increase the depth of the original capscrew hole more than 3.0 mm [0.120 in].
Slide the stop collar over the drill bit.
Subtract 0.50 mm [0.020 in] from the insert protrusion.
Select a feeler gauge equivalent to this value.
With the drill resting at the bottom of the hole, insert the feeler gauge between the stop collar and drill bushing.
Tighten the stop collar.
Use a drill motor with a clutch and a maximum operating speed of 300 rpm and a suitable cutting fluid. Operate the drill motor until the stop collar contacts the drill bushing.
When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.
WARNING
Some solvents are flammable and toxic. Read the manufacturer’s instructions before using.
Check the capscrew hole for evidence of porosity and cracks.
Clean the threads, and flush any debris from the tapped hole using a solvent-degreasing agent.
Install the thread insert on a cylinder head capscrew and lock it in place with a jam nut.
Temporarily install the thread insert and check the protrusion. Make certain that the protrusion is 0 to 1 mm [0 to 0.040 in] above the cylinder block surface.
After checking the above listed items, if the thread insert protrusion still exceeds 1.0 mm [0.040 in], the depth of the original capscrew hole must be increased. Follow the same procedure.
Prior to increasing the capscrew hole depth, check the following.
Do not increase the depth of the original capscrew hole more than 3.0 mm [0.120 in].
Make certain the correct thread insert is being used. Various inserts are available, and may appear identical except for their length.
Make certain the insert used is the correct length.
Make certain the capscrew hole is threaded all the way to the bottom.
Make certain there are no burrs or other damage that would prevent the insert from threading to the bottom of the capscrew hole.
Remove the insert.
After checking the above listed items, if the thread insert protrusion still exceeds 1.0 mm [0.040 in], the depth of the original capscrew hole must be increased using the steps above. Do not increase the depth of the original capscrew hole more than 3.0 mm [0.120 in].
For applications where the thread insert is recessed into a counterbore, an end mill or a machine cutter will be necessary to remove the excess length of the insert and restore the alignment of the counterbore.
If replacing the cylinder block or using a previously stored cylinder block, make sure to clean any oil/rust preventative solvent from the cylinder bores, gasket sealing areas, and main bearing bores prior to use.